A True Surf Story from Bobby!!!!!!!!
take a bite out of crowds, a short story.

Posted by bobby on 1/5/2002, 8:21 pm
67.192.171.206

 
I am come to Oahu from Topsail, doing my time for uncle sam, I'm stoked, but today was different than most, I went out at a new break I found, an out of the way spot on the NE corner, it catches the swell wrap from the north shore on bigger days, and goes offshore during Kona winds...where I live the Kona's are onshore and make the waves choppy..today was one of those days. Now I have been looking at this spot for about a week and I wanted to paddle out each time, just to check it, but it has been kinda too big for me to paddle out at a new reef break and not know the ins and outs, plus I have always been by myself when checking it. Having someone out with you, especially here, to push you and help you if you need it is smart I think, well today the swell finally dropped, about head high, and not too consistent, time to check it out, so I paddled out on my longboard, really only hoping to find the peak and check out the reef, if I caught a few good ones, great, it was such a nice day....I win either way, I also thought the next time I would know the place a little better, and I would charge a little harder. It would be a lot safer, and I would feel more comfortable...So I go out, its a long paddle to this spot, 200 yrds maybe, but easy paddle through the channel. On the way, I see the other surfers catching some good ones, I finally get to the line up, sit up on my board and who should paddle by but Ken Bradshaw, wow, cool, I thought, this was a first for me over here, I have been out with Ben at Masonboro a long time ago, but that was all...I watched Mr. Bradshaw and everyone else just ripping and it wasn't long until a wave came my way, I was in good position sitting close to the channel on the lefts, this break was a long right, but no channel over there, so you got worked if you got caught inside after a ride, the left I was on was a shorter but after the ride it was easy paddle back out on my 9'0. There were only about 10 guys out, most on shortboards taking the longer rights, after about 45 min of catching a few good ones, feeling pretty good, I catch a right and it was soo sweet. I paddle back out, got worked like I knew I would, but who cares it was a good ride. Then, I see these 3 guys drop in on the same, nice, overhead right. The one guy who got burned in the very back, by the other 2 rippers, kicked out and Mr. Bradshaw was right there sitting on his board, the guy who kicked out, I'll call him Joe, was his friend, Joe and Mr. Bradshaw started talking and Joe picked out one of the guys who cut him off on his way back out and started yelling at the guy, but I didn't really hear all of that, I was about 20 yrds away, but I definitely heard Mr. Bradshaw, he got involved, and he just snapped, he yelled something, then started paddling toward the guy, I thought he was going to punch him, the guy sat strong on his board until Mr. Bradsahw got right there, then the guy jumped off his board and started swimming away, Mr. Bradshaw, was just yelling, cussing, pulling on the guys leash and board, everyone in the line up was staring, and I was too, then all of a sudden, Mr. Bradshaw grabbed the guys board by the rail, and bit it, he bit it and then threw it at the guy, the poor fellow, just grabbed his board and paddled in..Mr. Bradshaw then turned around and went back to the peak, and started ripping again, I just sat there with my mouth wide open for a while, I had read that he did that somewhere, but it was a trip to see. After about an hour most everyone went in and I caught my share, I left feeling beat, satisfied, and thinking what an unusual session....


a very long but true story...thanks.